BITLESS BRIDLES - THE THREE TYPES + REVEALING THE DISCOVERY OF THEIR SUCCESS...

Life isn't always easy and insightful revelation is often the result of living through and learning from challenging situations. This occurred when I bought my first horse, Tye. After experiencing many emotionally frustrating and physically painful situations with him, I discovered very simple and easy solutions by changing the way I interacted with him, which he understood and responded to effortlessly. I found that numerous other horses also respond similarly to this approach, though these methods completely oppose traditional teaching on handling horses and riding them. By understanding how horses communicate naturally, I was able to gain an insight into why bitless bridles are so effective, and why bitted bridles [apart from the terrible pain, dysfunction and psychological torment] cause so much confusion for the horse. This article looks at the three different types of bitless bridles available and also reveals the small but absolutely vital difference in communication that exists between a non bitted bridle and one that is bitted.
 
Horses are naturally very obliging and peaceful creatures. They are in complete harmony with their environment and possess highly refined senses and reflexes to enable their survival. One vital aspect of herd life is hierarchical structure. The herd has the most dominant of all the horses as it's leader, with progressively less dominant horses following in sequence below one another. This structure ensures orderliness and exists so that minimum energy is expended in completing every day activities, as each horse knows it's exact position within the herd.

As horses are necessarily almost silent creatures, they rely on a non verbal way of communicating with one another which reinforces this order. The way they do this is by a more dominant horse creating a situation of pressure which is directed at a less dominant horse. The more dominant horse initiates a physical movement along with an 'energy' of purposeful intent which can be as small as a flip of the nose or a glare, or more aggressive depending on the situation. The less dominant horse obeys instantly and without question by moving away from the source of the pressure or discomfort. By moving away from the situation of pressure, the less dominant horse gains a release. If it does not move quickly enough, more violent reinforcement soon follows. I have named this specific form of horse communication MOVING AWAY FROM PRESSURE (MAP).

Example : the above photo shows the dominant herd leader - a bay mare moving purposefully with her ears pinned back towards the less dominant covered appaloosa. It's obvious she is showing a high intent or energy which correlates with her body movement. The less dominant horse understands this language very clearly, quickly moves away from the cause of pressure - the mare, and by so doing gains a release from the pressure or discomfort. In fact this natural cause and effect is common - as humans we also move away from pressure or discomfort emotionally or physically, although we possess verbal skills to communicate as well. As an example, if a person pricks you with a pin, one would naturally move away from the discomfort. If a person invades your personal space, again one naturally feels inclined to move away. Horses rely on this single non verbal way of communicating in every interaction they have with one another, every day of their lives, and it is never forgotten or ignored.

It is upon this natural, simple, sound and effective principle of communication - of MOVING AWAY FROM PRESSURE - that all bitless bridles, except a mechanical hackamore are based upon [albeit unknowingly by the manufacturer]. They all create a small amount of pressure on the side of the face which is opposite to the rein being pulled or opened. The horse naturally moves away from this pressure, thus creating a release from it. This is communication that is so natural to the horse, it understands it effortlessly and obliges willingly and peacefully.

In the photo below the horse wears a rope halter with a lead rope attached by a knot and made into reins. The point of pressure on the right side of it's face is clearly seen, as the left rein is pulled or opened. Whether the head piece is a side pull bitless bridle, a crossover bitless bridle or simply a rope halter or head stall with reins attached, the horse always feels pressure on the opposite side of it's face to the rein that is being pulled or opened. When a left rein is used, one is asking the horse to move to the left. As the horse feels pressure on the right side of it's face, it quickly MOVES AWAY FROM PRESSURE to gain a release, just as it would when interacting with members of it's herd.

A bitted bridle does not use the same kind of natural language. Instead it relies on a principle of asking the horse to move INTO pressure - and it is this flawed methodology which contributes to an enormous amount of confusion for the horse. In the photo below the horse wears a normal bitted bridle. Along with various other painful assaults on the sensitive mouth area, the bit squeezes down and rubs continually on the bars in the mouth - the gap of cushioned bone which lies between the front and back sets of teeth, and where the bit lies.

The main point of pressure is clearly seen on the left bar as the left rein is pulled or opened. Whilst the horse may feel a very slight amount of pressure on the right side of it's face from the ring or shank butting up to the corner of it's mouth as the bit slides through, the pressure is felt significantly more on the left bar. When wearing a bitted bridle, the horse always feels pressure on the same side of it's mouth to the rein that is being pulled or opened. It is then required to move INTO that pressure to gain a release.

Creating pressure on the bar of the mouth, and then requiring a horse to move INTO that pressure is like speaking a foreign language to them, and is absolutely opposite to what they do naturally. This miscommunication creates confusion and along with the pain and interference of physiological functions caused by the bit, escalates anxiety to levels that are often dangerous.

Some of the most fundamental and basic skills taught to an inexperienced rider is how to ask a horse to move, turn, slow down and stop. In fact it is these few seemingly simple requests which often cause the most amount of frustration, fear and danger to even experienced riders, with horses who stubbornly resist or react frighteningly to all efforts. With riders the world over experiencing such common problems, one must therefore speculate, and it is also my experience, that the means by which we ask a horse to do these things is inhumane, ineffective and dangerous.

When a rider is on a horse galloping at around 30 mph|50 kmph, one must be extremely confident on the means used to turn, slow or stop it. It is ridiculous to expect a horse who experiences an excruciating amount of pain, along with great fearfulness and physiological suffering to be able to calmly listen and respond the correct way to a rider. As well, when the method of communication is so ineffective and is actually the source of pain and suffering - it becomes downright foolish!

As an example, if one was racing a car, it would be ridiculous to press the horn to make it stop. Unfortunately a bitted bridle communicates requests equally as ineffectively to the horse as a horn would in stopping a car. A bitted bridle is a completely ineffective tool of communication, and simply does not work in a way that the horse understands.

There are just a few varieties of bitless bridles – all with slightly different actions and looks, but most importantly all use the correct principle of creating pressure on the opposite side of the horse's face to the rein that is being pulled or opened, and then asking the horse to MOVE AWAY FROM PRESSURE [except for mechanical hackamores]. As well, they have the added benefit of not using pain as a way of controlling the horse, nor do they interfere with vital bodily functions as a bitted bridle does. Communication with the horse becomes simple and clear, and it responds willingly and peacefully.

THE KNOTTED ROPE HALTER - SIMPLE : QUICK : VERSATILE : DURABLE : EFFECTIVE
About : The rope halter is a personal favourite for versatility and quickness. It can be used both as a simple groundwork halter as well as a quick and easy bitless bridle, by making reins from the lead rope and knotted under the chin loop. Whilst not as smart as a leather side pull or crossover, every horse responds very well both on the ground and to riding in a rope halter. Whilst it is commonly thought the knots align with helpful pressure points on the face, this is in fact false. The halter fits reasonably loosely which allows for movements such as eating, drinking and yawning.

Action : When one rein is pulled or opened for example when turning, slight pressure is placed on the opposite side of the horse's head generally around the nose band and cheek area. The pressure is very light because the halter is a loose fit and slips around the nose easily, thereby ensuring comfort at all times.

Other : Rope halters are machine washable, durable, strong and don't usually require any particular maintenance. They are available in a variety of colours and one halter usually fits a variety of similar sized horses, although there are definite differences between mini, pony, cob and horse sizes. The Nungar Knots brand manufactured in Australia from www.nungarknots.com.au is highly recommended. These halters are very soft and supple, but strong and hardwearing unlike cheaper versions. Also recommend is a Nungar Knots 3.6 metre 'suityaself' lead rope which has a detachable metal clip. By detaching the clip, it is easy to loop the spliced end through the halter chin loop, which then becomes a gentle lead rope training tool, and also easy to make into a bitless bridle. As Nungar Knots is a wholesale company, a distributor can be easily sourced by viewing their website, and arranging purchase and postage to NZ. More information about how to attach a lead rope to a halter or how to make reins from a lead rope may be found in the 'articles' section of the website.

THE CROSSOVER BITLESS BRIDLE - SMART : STRONG : EFFECTIVE
About : The crossover bitless bridle is very smart, especially when manufactured in leather, looks very much like a bitted bridle and has a slightly different action to a rope halter or side pull bitless bridle. Crossover bitless bridles are available from many sources, although the best quality and generic brand is available from the website www.bitlessbridle.com This bridle was designed by Dr Robert Cook, a veterinary science professor and published author in the USA, who has completed significant amounts of research for over fifty years on the effects of bitted bridles on the nose, mouth, throat and lungs of the horse. He is a world authority on the harmful effects of bits, an active voice in advocating changes to FEI rules, and is an inspiration to millions of people worldwide.

Action : The crossover bitless bridle has a head piece which sits behind the ears of the horse and crosses diagonally under the chin and through small rings which are located on the nose band to which reins are attached. When one rein is pulled or opened, more generalised gentle pressure is applied to the opposite side of the horse's head from the poll to the nose. When rein pressure is released, the rein loosens, thereby releasing the crossover strap under the chin also. For more levering action the noseband may be placed lower on the horse's nose, and for less levering action, the noseband may be placed in a higher position.

Other : Crossover bitless bridles are available in synthetic or leather and come in a variety of colours and brands. Depending on the material used, they may or may not require particular maintenance or cleaning, however do require more fitting than a rope halter.

THE SIDE PULL BITLESS BRIDLE - SMART : STRONG : EFFECTIVE
About : The side pull bitless bridle is a smarter looking alternative to a halter, and has a gentle action similar to a rope halter. The fit is virtually the same as a bitted bridle - fitting snugly around the horse's head, and the look is also very similar to a bitted bridle. It has a triangular section at each side of the nose for stability and usually has a split head piece. Reins are attached to small rings which are located on the nose band.

Action : Whilst the sidepull bitless bridle has a very similar action to the rope halter, when one rein is pulled or opened pressure is more directly transferred to the opposite side of the noseband, as it is more fixed and rigid than a rope halter. As the noseband is still relatively loose and malleable, wearing a side pull bitless bridle is a painless experience for the horse. For more levering action the noseband may be placed lower on the horse's nose, and for less levering action, the noseband may be placed in a higher position.

Other : Sidepull bitless bridles are available in synthetic or leather and come in a variety of colours and brands. Depending on the material used, they may or may not require particular maintenance or cleaning, however do require more fitting than a rope halter.

Bosal bitless bridles are not recommended. Although the bosal is bitless and does utilise the correct principle of creating pressure on the opposite side of the horse's face to the rein that is being pulled or opened, and then asking the horse to MOVE AWAY FROM PRESSURE, it also uses a certain amount of discomfort and pain to control the horse. Usually bosals are made from very stiff braided rawhide or other rigid material. The rigid nose piece usually sits on the very sensitive and nerve rich bridge of the nose, sliding up and down or around, as the reins are activated and causes bruising, rubbing and sores. The bosal is infrequently used in New Zealand, however it is common in western riding in the USA.

Hackamore (German, English, Mechanical etc) bitless bridles are not recommended, for even though they are bitless, they use leverage, discomfort and pain to control the horse, as well as the incorrect principle of requesting a horse to move INTO pressure.

Two metal shanks run from the nose band downwards, where the reins attach at the bottom. When one or both the reins are used, tension is created on the side pieces, which creates pressure on the poll [top of the head]. This pressure rotates the metal shanks which then poke into the soft, sensitive mouth and cheek area. When this force is applied it also causes the nose piece, which is often made from materials such as hard leather or metal, to rotate and press onto the sensitive and nerve rich bridge of the nose. Some hackamores use serrated metal nose pieces which magnify the agonising pain and cause extremely painful bruising and lacerations. The horse is required to move into this pain, to gain a release from it which is un natural to the horse and very confusing for it. Depending on how much pressure is applied, the horse tries to avoid the pain by over flexion or over extension of the neck and poll, which creates obstruction of breathing with resultant lung impairment, as well as overly contracted and stretched muscles, ligaments and tendons in the head, neck and back area.

Further information about bitless training or barefoot trimming may be viewed on the 'profile', 'photos', 'info' or 'testimonial' sections of the website or by contacting Horse & Human by email, phone or text.